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Skin Facts
04/05/2008 - By Daniela Chandler Skin Facts
The skin is the largest organ in the human body and accounts for approximately 15% of body weight. The skin is an excretory organ, excreting sweat, sebum and waste substances. It allows us to regulate temperature and store and synthesise proteins and vitamins. The skin has a number of functions and its structure plays an important role in performing each one.
The skin is made up of three distinct layers, the epidermis, dermis and a subcutaneous fat layer, also known as the hypodermis. The subcutaneous fat layer consists of two types of tissue: the predominant tissue is adipose tissue, with loose connective fibres completing the layer. Adipose tissue is formed from fat cells, called adipocytes. These adipocytes act as heat insulators and shock absorbers; they are a source of fuel and allow the body to store energy.
The dermis lies above the subcutaneous fat layer, and is a thick layer of connective tissue incorporating major operational glands and cells. The dermis is split into upper and lower sections. The upper section is known as the papillary layer and is characterised by rows of peg-like projections (dermal papillae). These projections form part of the dermal/epidermal junction, helping to bind the skin layers together, and in addition form the ridges and grooves that make up fingerprints. The lower section is called the reticular layer and is filled with a dense network of interlinking fibres, the majority of which are collagen fibres. Collagen is the main protein of the skin, giving plumpness and moisture. Elastin fibres are also present, giving support and structure to the skin.
Throughout the levels of the dermis operational glands and cells are present. Sweat glands are found in the lower layers. They have the appearance of a thin tube with a coil at the end. These glands are lined with sweat-secreting epithelial cells. There are two types of sweat glands. Eccrine glands are the most abundant and are not connected to hair follicles. These secrete a water-based odourless sweat which will contain some salts and waste material. Apocrine sweat glands are mostly in the axillary and groin areas, and are connected to hair follicles. These glands respond to heat, stress, fear and pain and excrete a sweat which when mixed with bacteria on the skin emits a bad odour.
Sebaceous glands are part of a pilosebaceous unit along with follicles and hair. They contain specialised cells that produce fatty material, which accumulates, causing the cells to swell and burst. The resulting fatty material and cellular debris is called sebum.
The dermis also contains nerves and nerve endings, muscle fibres, hair follicles and many blood vessels. The upper layer of the skin is called the epidermis and this is split into five different layers: basal, malpighian, granular, clear and corneum. The basal layer is the base, and most active, layer of the epidermis. Reproducing cells are found within this layer, and new cells are formed via mitosis (a process whereby a cell separates into two identical halves). The basal layer has constant cellular activity and contains the plumpest, most receptive cells.
Above the basal layer is the malpighian layer, which is characterised by a thick cytoplasm (a gelatinous, semi-transparent fluid that fills cells) and a healthy nucleus (the control centre). As the cells ascend from this layer to the granular layer they are invaded by granules made up of keratohyalin. Keratohyalin is a protein substance that is the precursor to keratin (fibrous, structural proteins that cause hardening of cells). The keratohyalin transforms into keratin in the clear layer of the epidermis. When these cells are invaded with keratin they become slightly hardened and flattened, yet still retain some elasticity.
The superficial layer of the epidermis is called the corneum. The cells within the corneum are completely invaded with keratin and therefore are hard, flat and dehydrated. This layer provides protection for the skin and is continuously desquamating cells.
The skin's complex structure system requires intricate manufacturing procedures within skincare products to ensure absorption, effect and, ultimately, results. Pevonia uses intricate advanced and up-to-the-minute manufacturing processes to create a superior and innovative product that can truly offer the much demanded result. The goal of the manufacturing process is to reduce the molecular size of each emulsion whilst maintaining ingredient stability, to promote deeper penetration, product absorption and healthy cells. An essential process in gaining a productive emulsion is to ensure the active ingredients are chirally correct. Any molecule has two sides or shapes and although they appear identical they do not always feature the same benefits. A chiral molecule's identical side will be an exact mirror image of itself. The term chirally correct is given to whichever side is isolated due to its superior benefits and compatibility with the body. If the chirally correct molecules are not selected and separated, the ingredient can cause detrimental effects. The skin cells are effectively a keyhole with the ingredients being the key. The correct key or chirally correct ingredient must be selected to ensure access to the cells.
Once the correct ingredients have been sourced, Pevonia puts the product through micronisation processes to produce an advanced micro-emulsion. The goal is to reduce the molecular size whilst maintaining the same constituents of the original molecule, to allow easy utilisation for the body. Micro-emulsions are taken through a process of homogenisation, to achieve a final product that has all particles mixed in a uniform and consistent suspension that prevents product separation. This eliminates the inferior look and quality of a cream with an oil slick on the surface.
The homogenisation process used by Pevonia is known as a tri-phasic method. This method is costly and time-consuming; however, it means that no active ingredients are destroyed during the heating procedure of homogenisation. A quicker (bi-phasic) method of homogenisation can result in the loss of up to 60% of active ingredients; however, if this many active ingredients were destroyed wouldn't this reduce the results the product could achieve?
The tri-phasic method also creates a Water-Oil-Water (WOW) emulsion. A WOW emulsion contains three phases: an external water phase, an internal oil phase and an extra internal water phase. Each of these phases allows the ingredients to reach many layers of the epidermis. The ingredients within the external water phase are designed to stay on the surface of the skin to protect and hydrate, within the oil phase they are designed to reach the epidermal lipids within intercellular spaces, and in the final extra water phase they are designed to reach the granular layer. Advanced processes can then be implemented when required, to preserve, allow time-release technology or give a targeted release of a specific ingredient. Pevonia is proud to be a skincare brand that still believes in results and understands that to get them we must have an in-depth knowledge and comprehension of the skin. The manufacturing processes undertaken are to ensure the product works with the skin's natural functions so the skin can absorb, digest, utilise and excrete the ingredients. Education is the key to results.
Daniela Chandler
For further information contact Pevonia UK Ltd on 01449 727000 or info@pevoniauk.com.
www.pevonia.co.uk